Thursday, 9 July '09: Don't take the Metro!

"Paris is so confusing", lamented the young American couple, "we have simply no idea of the layout of the city!"

"Ah," I said, with the air of a seasoned traveller, "Don't take the Metro! That's your problem. Just follow the river! And let the Seine show you Paris!"

" Prepare, however, to be distracted time and again." Here, by the sumptuous elegance of the Pont Alexandre III constructed between 1897 and 1900 to symbolise the Franco-Russian friendship instigated by Tzar Alexandre III and President Carnot.

"Linger a while to savour the sunlight on the dome of the Hotel Des Invalides founded by Louis XIV to house his wounded troops."

"Was a hospital ever so glorious as this one?"

"Stand amazed at Pegagus held fast by Fame, all in gilded bronze and mounted on the two pylons at both ends of the bridge."

"Take the steps down to river level so that you don't miss the elegant ladies who smile from the bridge's undercarriage on the passing boats."

"Don't stride to quickly along the riverside. Tarry to admire the engravings and antique books for sale. What does it matter if you don't read French? That battered tome with its yellowed pages will look just great on the desk in your library back home."

" Wherever you tarry for yet another snap, the Eiffel Tower seems to be pop up."

"See those grim towers up ahead. That is La Concierge, the final holding place of Marie Antionette and many other unfortunates before their last journey in the tumbrils to meet Madame Guillotine.""Cross to the Left Bank and wander through the nursery stalls selling spring flowers. I am sure a nice young man will stop garden planning for just a mo' to take your photo like he did mine."

"Wave at the river boats and really consider taking a dinner cruise. It costs a month's groceries but the recollection will never fade. My memory of Richard and I on that cruise in 2002 is precious."

"Let the distant towers of Notre Dame remind you to ignore your aching feet and head in the direction of the gargoyles. But do allow yourself to be sidetracked for lunch served by an enthusiastic waiter over at least two hours. You don't understand the menu? Let the universal language of smiles and nods do the trick as the waiter makes the choice. I guarantee the plat du jour will be delicious."


"Exhausted and you want to go back to the hotel? You simply can't. There is the magnificent Hotel De Ville and just up the road is..."

That showy-inside out museum of modern art, the Pompidou Centre. Like a lady who wants to show off the gaudy glamour of her underwear by wearing it over her day clothes, the air-conditioning ducts and elevators of the Pompidou are on the outside of the building."

" You don't understand the style of the likes of Rothko, Stella, Pollack and others? Why worry? Insight is quite unnecessary - just be seduced by their creativity and stand on your head to do your viewing if that will help."
"The Metro to get back home? Never! How can one stay underground like a Parisian mole in this fine city? Oh, I know there are quaint characters on the subway but walking is far, far better."

"Just let the river be your guide!"

For other wonderful parts of the world, visit My World every Tuesday. I have met some great friends this way.

Friday, 1 August, 2008: A South African in Paris

Now what does a South African do in Paris?

I spotted the Eiffel tower against an early morning sky as the shuttle bus drove me into the city at 7 am.

In the distance the grey-white Byzantine dome of the basilica of Sacre-Coeur could be seen where that same afternoon I would stand once more in awe of the mosaic ceiling depicting a triumphant risen Christ surrounded by apostles, saints, clergymen, popes and the nations in postures of adoration. I love the mosaic of St Peter holding his keys and accompanied by a cockerel to remind him of his human frailty. And I am so pleased the artists, Marcel Magne and Luc-Olivier Merson, included a handsome dog among the heavenly crowd of worshippers!

I roused some sleepy pigeons at the Opera House on my early morning exploration.

The magnificant Opera House..

The foyer at the Opera House and the giant chandelier with the ceiling of the auditorium painted by Marc Chagall. His modern art coexists happily with the baroque splendour. Of course, each time I turned, I glimpsed the Phantom lurking just behind my shoulder...

A little shopping...this is not a monument - just the interior of La Fayette's department store.

But for the real thing, I chose the Place Vendome where the big names like Chanel and Cartier jostled for my attention.

A chocolatier for something sweet...

or a necklace or two to tuck into my travel bag...

Diamonds set by Cartier are a gal's best friend.

On Sunday I attended St Michael's Evangelical Anglican church where I was welcomed with great warmth. Thank you, Isobel!

After church I strolled up the Champs Elysees.

At the Louvre I saw the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo. But I still think my all time favourite art musem is the Musee d' Orsay housed in the old railway station on the Left Bank. I viewed the work of Renoir, Degas, van Gogh, Millet, Cezanne, Manet and Monet, to name a view.

Bridges over the Seine...

...and artists on its banks.

The grim conciergerie where Marie Antionette spent her last days. One of the towers, the Bonbec tower, was a place of torture and in the Courtyard of the Twelve those condemned to death in 1793-4 were assembled in groups of twelve before taking their last ride to Madame Guillotine.

I had a three course Sunday lunch at a tiny sidewalk cafe on the Left Bank in sight of Notre Dame. The simple meal was served with such elegance and care over a period of two and a half hours. No rushing a Frenchman at his food! When presented with a choice of five desserts, I selected the creme caramel. "Aah," the waiter sighed, "A good choice, madame!"

And so it was.